2018 Clos Des Lunes, Lune D’Argent: Not Quite The Great Wine We Expected It To Be

Why Clos des Lunes, Lune d’Argent

Every year, our provincial liquor distribution board announces the Bordeaux collection release.

It is billed as a curated selection of Bordeaux for every palate, from serious collectors to curios beginners. In the past, this event had wine aficionados lining up at provincial liquor stores, much like the new iPhone launch event. The pandemic has changed that, and now the queues are gone. However, the eager anticipation of the annual Bordeaux wine release remains constant.

This unveiling typically showcases the tried-and-true selections, with the roster of producers and wines undergoing minimal alteration. On occasion, something new pops up, and that’s when we pay special attention.

A case in point, Clos des Lunes Lune d’Argent, made its debut in British Columbia’s liquor stores during the 2018 Bordeaux release. And since it made it to the 2019 Bordeaux release catalogue, we’re pretty sure it’s a regular feature now.

About the Clos des Lunes and the winemaker

Every new name in the Bordeaux lineup catches our eye, especially when it’s a White wine. Finding a reasonably-priced quality French White on this side of the pond is no easy feat! We went digging for answers.

Tucked away in Sauternes, a region famed for its sweet wines, Clos des Lunes and its table wines were relatively under the radar until acclaimed winemaker Olivier Bernard stepped in. You might recognize Bernard as the mastermind behind the success of Domaine de Chevalier in Pessac Leognan, producing some of the most sought-after Bordeaux Whites.

Now, Sauternes may be famed for its opulent sweet wine offerings, but dry (table) White wines? Not exactly its claim to fame! It piqued our interest that Bernard ventured into this less-travelled territory, driven by a singular goal – to create an exquisite dry White that would, with time become part of the same legend that describes the sweet wines of Sauterns. 

Remarkably, the stewardship of Clos des Lunes rests in the hands of Bernard’s elder son, an ingenious step to let the fledgling soar independently. Drawing inspiration from the winemaking practices of Domaine de Chevalier and benefiting from shared expertise, Clos des Lunes’ approach reflects this heritage. But until Clos des Lunes earns its own spotlight, the Bernards do not leave anything to chance. Just glance at the label, boldly displaying: “société civile Domaine de Chevalier famille Bernard” for anyone who may not be aware of the association.

Clos des Lunes wines

Clos des Lunes makes three White wines: Lune d’Or, Lune d’Argent and Lune Blanche. Under the Bernards’ care, the grapes are hand harvested and gently pressed. The vinification takes place in small thermos-regulated vats or barrels, depending on the quality of the wine.

• Lune d’Or is a premium wine produced in limited quantities of around 20 barrels annually. This is the wine that is meant to be an embodiment of sophistication, restraint, and a testament to meticulous craftsmanship.
• Lune d’Argent, the flagship offering, forms the heart of Clos des Lunes’ production and is meant to represent the essence of the Clos des Lunes terroir. Both Lune d’Or and Lune d’Argent have aging potential.
• Lune Blanche is an entry-level wine that is meant to be enjoyed young. Bernards’ first Clos des Lunes vintage was produced in 2012.

In Canada, we only have Lune d’Argent available for purchase.

Clos des Lunes wines and the Canadian market

In Canada, Domain de Chevalier connection worked its magic. The 2018 release of Lune d’Argent, once it arrived in our province, flew off the liquor store shelves within the first week. Despite its $40 price tag, wine aficionados were happy to pay the price. The story repeated itself with this wine’s 2019 vintage. Priced at $40, 2019 Clos des Lunes, Lune d’Argent enjoyed a similarly swift sale.

Unfortunately, we missed out on both occasions here in Canada. However, our luck took a turn for the better when we looked south of the border. A favourite US-based retailer had the 2018 vintage of this wine available at an incredible $15.95, a far cry from the $41 we’d have to shell out back home.

Tasting 2018 Clos des Lunes, Lune d’Argent. 

Aged with a split of 25% in barrels and 75% in stainless steel, this wine has earned praise from critics. Our own experience, though, didn’t quite align. If we had to rate it out of a 100, it might land in the mid-80s, but let’s keep it simple: good, great, or average. For the 2018 Clos des Lunes Lune d’Argent, we’d lean towards “average”.

Surprisingly, the wine is not as expressive on the palate as we anticipated from its aromatic profile. The nose definitely outperforms the palate, leaving a somewhat underwhelming impression.

This wine needs a good 30-minute decanting to shine. We suspect its full potential might bloom around 2025 when its flavours hopefully will catch up with its enticing aroma.

A Culinary Challenge: Finding the Right Pairings for Lune d’Argent

Nailing the perfect pairing for this wine is anything but a straightforward task. While we discovered some successful matches, even a few that stood out, we did not find a flawless 10 out of 10 match.

• Shrimp cakes with a nod to Julia Child’s remoulade recipe proved a pleasing choice. You can find the recipe here
• Shrimp risotto offered an acceptable pairing with this Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc blend, though it landed farthest from the mark.
• The crown went to chicken fricassee with bacon and potatoes, an enjoyable pairing that brought out this wine’s mineral character in full force.

Sing up for our newsletter to get notified when we add these recipes to our library.

Conclusion

We’re always hunting for good wines that don’t break the bank, no matter where they come from. Getting a bottle of wine from the same winemaking team that makes the impressive Domaine de Chevalier for less than $100 sounds like a win. The excitement fades once you have your first sip and realize that this is just another average White Bordeaux. At $40 a bottle, it’s hardly a steal. If you manage to get it for $15 like we did, it’s a fair price to pay for this wine.

Putting money aside, here’s the bottom line and ultimate mike drop: Hold your horses, Chevalier. Clos des Lunes might have potential, but that didn’t come through in the 2018 vintage of Lune d’Argent we tried.

Click here to see the interactive map