New Entrants Of Madeira’s 200 Years Old Wine Scene: A Visit And Wine Tasting At Terras Do Avo

Dry (table) winemaking in Madeira

If you think Madeira makes fortified wines only, you’re in for a surprise.

Terras do Avô: Not your usual retirement project

Terras do Avô, also known as Duarte Caldeira & Filhos, is located on the North shore of Madeira Island, in the village of Seiçal (Seixal).

Apart from from their own grapes, the Caldeira family also purchases grapes from other local growers, primarily for the production of their sparkling wines. During our visit to his family home, Mr. Caldeira shared that the idea of starting the winery arose when he was approaching retirement. He believed that becoming a wine producer would be a fulfilling endeavour during his retirement years. Together with his wife and children, he formed a company, giving rise to Terras do Avô.

With Duarte’s daughter joining their family business and beginning the active promotion of the Terras d Avô brand, their wines started to gain popularity on the Island of Madeira and mainland Portugal.

It’s worth noting that Terras de Avô does not have its own winemaking facilities or an in-house winemaker. The plan is for Caldeira’s grandson, who is currently studying winemaking, to join the family business and remove the reliance on external assistance. Until then, they diligently document the daily growing conditions that impact their grapes and share this information with a consulting winemaker out of the mainland, who, in his turn, supplies the guidance on how to best vinify their wines. In line with these instructions, the wine is produced in a shared facility in Seiçal.

Terras de Avô wines are available for sale along the north shore of Madeira, as well as in select stores in Funchal, the capital city of Madeira. They also distribute their wines through a representative in Lisbon, on mainland Portugal. Notably, their white and sparkling wines have gained some acclaim and success in the market.

How we picked Terras do Avô for a visit

For wine enthusiasts, visiting a winery is usually as simple as checking their operating hours and maybe scheduling a visit.

Based on our previous wine tasting experience, we did not think our plan to visit all ten wineries producing table wines on Madeira Island was ambitious. Little did we know how challenging it would be!

Most of these wineries don’t have websites, making it nearly impossible to find information about them or their business hours. Some have email addresses, but the majority rely on Facebook pages for communication. We made every effort to contact all 10 wineries through various channels, but only three responded to our inquiries. Out of those, only two offered wine tasting. Terras do Avô was one of the wineries that promptly replied to us, and that’s how we decided to pay them a visit.

Visiting Terras do Avô

At first glance, Terras do Avô appears like any other private house in the neighborhood. There are no visible vineyards nearby, and if not for the sign on the house, you wouldn’t know it could be associated with a winery. Often the looks can be deceptive. This time around, the looks were spot on. The house is indeed the private residence of Sr. Caldeira and his family. Surprisingly, they conduct wine tastings on the terrace of their family home, which is quite unconventional.

When we arrived for our appointment, we didn’t anticipate any issues since, as a rule, visiting a winery allows for some flexibility. When we realized that we were heading to a private residence, we thought our early arrival might mean that nobody would be available or prepared to receive us.

Lo and behold, neither Sr. Caldeira nor his daughter were present when we arrived. After waiting for a few minutes, we were greeted by Sra.Caldeira. Unfortunately, we faced a language barrier as we don’t speak Portuguese and Sra. Caldeira doesn’t speak English. Despite the challenge, we managed to communicate through gestures and guesswork, making for an initially awkward encounter.

Sra. Caldeira led us to the courtyard with lovely orchids, tables, and a stunning ocean view. Surprisingly, the wine that they were showcasing was sitting on a table, fully exposed to higher temperatures, which is unusual, to say the least. Eventually, Mr. Caldeira arrived, and our wine tasting began.

Terras do Avô Wines

Terras do Avô produces yearly vintages of their entry-level red and white wines. However, their premium red and white wines are only made in exceptional years, as determined by the consulting winemaker.

The varietal composition remains the same for both premium and entry-level wines. The key distinction lies in the winemaking process. The entry-level wines are made through grape pressing, while the premium wines are made using the gravity-flow winemaking method, which enhances the development of natural flavours and aromas. The premium wines have an additional €5 premium for white and €8.25 for red compared to their non-premium counterparts.

In 2017, Terras do Avô expanded its range by introducing a Rosé, made from the same grape varieties as their red wine: Touriga Nacional, Syrah, Tinta Roriz, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Terras do Avô holds the distinction of being the first winemaker on Madeira Island to produce sparkling wines. Interestingly, the initial sparkling wine vintage was to commemorate the 50th wedding anniversary of Sr. Caldeira and his wife. They also crafted another vintage for Sr. Caldeira’s 80th birthday. According to the proprietor, they now produce 2,700 bottles of sparkling wine.

In addition to sparkling wine, they produce an average of 30,000 to 40,000 bottles per year of red and white wines. Considering their vineyard size, which is approximately 3.2 acres, Terras do Avô’s production of still wines is commendable.

The labels on Terras do Avô wines are creatively designed, featuring a highly stylized image of Sr. Caldeira’s father, affectionately known as “grandfather,” featured inside a wine barrel.

Terras do Avô Wine tasting

At Terras do Avô Wines, the wine tasting experience revolves around two entry-level wines: red and white. The tasting takes place in a courtyard of their private home and costs €15 per person. There is no option to taste any other of their wines.

The tasting experience is accompanied by simple finger foods such as tuna salad, chorizo spread, olive tapenade, grapes, crackers, and a bit of semi-soft cheese.

Neither of these wines stood out on their own, but when enjoyed alongside the provided finger food, they truly transformed.

Following the principle of “what grows together works together,” the flavours of the wines complemented the finger food quite well, resulting in a pleasurable experience.

Conclusion

Now it’s time to answer the question: Is visiting Terras do Avô worth your time? Let’s be clear upfront – there’s no winery or vineyard tour when you go on a visit to Terras do Avô. Instead, you’ll be visiting the proprietor’s private home, which, although interesting, may not meet your expectations.

If you’ve been to wine tastings at Madeira’s fortified winemakers’ lodges, you may have come to expect a complimentary tasting. However, at Terras do Avô, you’ll have to pay €15 per person for just two basic wines. This makes it the most expensive wine tasting option on the Island, especially when taking into account the wine’s retail value and the limited snacks provided.

While it’s fascinating to glimpse into a Madeiran wine producer’s home, we don’t believe it’s worth the price. If you simply want to try their wines, a better use of your money might be to buy a bottle or two of their wines from Vinhos do Norte, a liquor store on Madeira’s North Shore.

Related posts:

• Madeira Island Winery Spotlight: Madeira Vintners and their Fenix
• Like Madeira Wine and Visiting the Madeira Island? All You Need to Know about the Madeira Winemakers and their wines